1920s Cartier France Tank Cintrée 18K YG

The Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs of all time. The original "Normale" design was introduced in 1917, but became commercially available in 1919 and was inspired by the Renault FT-17 tank used by the French Military in the First World War. Shortly after the creation of that first Tank wristwatch, Cartier expanded upon that original design by experimenting with variations in case shape and size.

Among the ranks of the Cartier Pebble and the Crash, the Tank Cintrée is widely respected as one of the most desirable and influential watches ever produced by the Maison. Originally introduced in 1921, the Cintrée name directly translates to "Arch" in English, which perfectly describes the elongated and curved interpretation of the original Tank design.

One of the great joys of being a vintage watch collector is the discovery and hunt of archival timepieces, so we are extremely proud and excited to present this beautiful, well-preserved, and exceptionally rare 1920s Cartier Tank Cintrée. While we don't have an exact date of production for this example, this piece does have a case back engraving dating the watch to 1926. Being that the Tank Cintrée was introduced in 1921, this piece was well within the first decade of production and thus one of the first examples produced. In this era, before the commercialization of the brand, Cartier was primarily a bespoke jewelry maker with watches as a secondary offering. As such, we know that very few Cartier wristwatches were made during this time, especially high-design models like the Tank Cintrée, making this example’s existence exceedingly more impressive.

Since early Cartier models, like this Tank Cintrée, were handmade with early manufacturing techniques and were by no means waterproof, there was a certain level of restoration involved in the survival of this example. From our research and understanding, we believe that the dial may have been restored or replaced by Cartier at some point, likely in the 1940s based on the printing and materials. The movement, while era-correct and correctly signed as a European Watch & Clock movement, features a different serial than the case, and is believed to have been changed by Cartier likely at the same time as the dial. We believe the hand-sloped glass crystal to be original to the watch as it does show the necessary wear and deformations of a handmade glass crystal of the era.

In regards to vintage Cartier, especially of this era, it is important to note that most of these surviving examples feature similar elements of restoration as these watches were purchased as heirlooms and would have been brought back to Cartier for servicing and restoration, similarly to a piece of jewelry purchased in the same era from the Maison.

SPECS

Stock # CTRTCF20
Brand Cartier
Style Tank Cintree
Model N/A
Serial 23XXX / 16XXX
Size Men's
Material 18K Yellow Gold
Dial Cream W/ Roman Numerals
Millimeters 46.3H x 23W x 6.4T
Strap 2pc Handmade Leather Strap

CASE & BRACELET

The 18K yellow gold Cintrée or "arched" case is exceptionally well-preserved for its age, showing evidence of being previously polished, though the original hallmarks, engraved serials, and case back engraving remain deep and fully present. The original handmade sloped glass crystal features some cracks and elements of wear. The sapphire cabochon crown is believed to be original to the watch. The case back features a lovely hand engraving that reads "To my darling husband, Love Winnie, July 1926". The watch comes supplied on a 2pc leather strap.

DIAL & HANDS

The curved Cartier France white dial with exploding Roman numerals is believed to be a very early Cartier replacement or restoration dial, likely from the 1940s. The dial does exhibit some wear and aging as expected from a non-waterproof watch of the era. Interestingly, the black paint used for the print has taken on a deep chocolate-brown "tropical" patina. The blued hands are believed to be original to the watch.

ACCESSORIES

None. The watch is keeping time perfectly, but the service history is unknown. A movement service can be provided upon request.

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