Zenith - 1990s Zenith El Primero De Luca Chronograph (Ref. 02.2310.400)
Worth A Read
History & Significance
The De Luca collection was born from the passion and vision of Zenith’s Italian import agent, affectionately known as “De Luca,” who sought to revive the classic chronograph spirit of the brand. Produced from 1988 to 1996, these watches marked a defining moment in Zenith’s modern era, as the brand transitioned from its 1970s experimental designs back toward traditional, sport-oriented chronographs.
Four versions of the De Luca were produced during this period, totaling approximately 6,500 pieces across panda and reverse panda dial configurations. With each iteration, Zenith refined the design, adding features like screw-down pushers, updated bezels, and slightly altered case dimensions, bringing the De Luca closer to the aesthetic of the Rolex Daytona while maintaining its El Primero identity.
At the heart of the watch beats the legendary El Primero Caliber 400, one of the most celebrated automatic chronograph movements ever made. With its high-beat 36,000 vph frequency and 50-hour power reserve, the movement remains a benchmark of precision and engineering excellence. Today, De Luca models stand as highly collectible milestones, prized for their rarity, balance, and authentic 1990s Zenith design.
Writer’s Thoughts
There’s something undeniably special about the De Luca, a chronograph that feels both familiar and distinct. The proportions are ideal, the dial execution crisp, and the character unmistakably Zenith. The even patina on the hour markers and the subtle wear across the bezel give this piece character. It’s easily one of the best ways to experience a true El Primero without stepping into five or six-figure territory.
Our Promise
Every watch is thoroughly vetted, carefully described with complete transparency, and guaranteed authentic. Each piece is offered in honest condition, ensuring collectors receive a timepiece that reflects both originality and integrity.
Specifications
Model: El Primero Ref. 02.2310.400
Year: 1990s
Case Material: Stainless steel
Case Size: 40mm diameter, 13.5mm thick, 46.3mm lug-to-lug, 20mm lug width
Bezel: Black unidirectional bezel
Dial: Gloss white panda dial with black registers and dark green patinated hour markers
Crystal: Mineral crystal
Movement: Automatic Zenith El Primero Caliber 400 which just came back from a full service overhaul
Bracelet: Original Zenith steel bracelet
Clasp: Original folded-lock clasp
Contents: Pouch
Condition
Case: Appears unpolished with normal signs of wear throughout.
Bezel: Black insert shows even fading and wear consistent with age.
Crystal: Excellent condition; free of chips or cracks.
Dial: Crisp and original; hour markers evenly patinated to a dark green tone.
Hands: Original hands have been relumed and repainted black.
Bracelet: Original oyster-style bracelet with light wear, most visible on center end links.
Clasp: Original clasp retains a solid click and closes securely.