Lapis Day-Date in White Gold

Take a moment if you need to reread the title—you read it correctly. While it might seem like a familiar concept, something about it feels unexpectedly special. We understand.

Before diving into the watch, let me share my deep passion for stone dials on Day-Dates, especially when housed in white metal. Some of the most iconic stone dials in this category include Onyx, Bloodstone, Green Jasper, and Coral—what I call the OGs. These early stone dials are distinctive for their minimalism, featuring only the coronet and calendar windows, with no diamond markers. Over the years, we've had the privilege of handling all of them, each finding a home with an exceptional collector.

For over a decade, I hunted these rare pieces until, about five years ago, I finally acquired an Onyx-dial Day-Date in white gold for my collection. Words cannot fully capture the beauty of these watches. And I’m not exaggerating when I say that white gold Day-Dates with stone dials are among the most stunning examples ever made. Their elegance lies in their simplicity—less is truly more.

For those who may not know, stone dials without diamond applications are significantly rarer, more sought after, and often more valuable than their diamond-adorned counterparts. Rolex only produced these original stone dials until 1999. It's a mystery why they didn’t make more because their beauty is undeniable. One could even argue that producing them without diamond settings would have been easier, as it eliminates the need for additional drill holes—reducing the risk of damaging the delicate stone.

Now to the watch itself, what we have here is an extraordinarily rare Rolex Day-Date 18039 in white gold, featuring the elusive Lapis dial.

First, let’s check the essential details. The serial number dates this watch to 1987, and the President bracelet is period-correct and matching. The overall condition is excellent and honest for a vintage piece, with only light signs of wear from age. There are no indications of case or bracelet restoration, and no major dents or dings—just a truly well-preserved example.

Most importantly, the dial is fully coherent with the watch’s serial, confirming it as a first-generation stone dial made specifically for the Day-Date.

Now, let’s talk about this mesmerizing Lapis dial.

Sliced impossibly thin, it features crisp, intact silver printing. The color is a deep, rich blue—reminiscent of the ocean or sky on a perfect day. There are no excessive pyrite inclusions, no black spots, and no distracting veins. Just a pure, captivating shade of blue that almost feels like you could look through it. Even more remarkable, the dial is free of cracks or hairlines—an essential factor for collectors of these rare pieces.

In short, this watch is beyond rare and beautifully preserved— a few words that perfectly describe this watch.

Inventory No. 3.2.406
Serial : R273xxx
Case Size: 36mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Movement: Automatic
Case: Very strong vintage condition case showing beautiful factory finish on the lugs. The lugs remain straight and even with well defined proportions. The fluted bezel is also in very good condition and not showing much wear from age. Case numbers are crisp and fully intact.
Bracelet/Strap: Very good matching 8385 White gold President bracelet that is not showing much wear from age. The clasp code correctly corresponds to the serial number. 22 links.
Dial: Excellent, rare and original Lapis dial with Silver print. The dial is free of any hairlines, cracks or damages whatsoever and is only showing very light wear from age. The TSwissT designation at 6pm is period correct and corresponds to the serial number of the watch. Handset is fully correct and in great condition.

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