Guilloché

When it comes to Rolex collecting, the dial is often the defining factor separating a good watch from a truly exceptional one. While the Day-Date and Datejust lines frequently steal the spotlight for dial variety, the Oyster Perpetual—Rolex’s purest expression of time-only simplicity—also boasts a fascinating world of rare and unusual dials, particularly in its vintage iterations.

Rare Oyster Perpetual dials are beloved because they break from the perceived simplicity of the time-only line. Without date complications and the Cyclops on the plexi the dial becomes the star—and when it features uncommon layouts, exotic colors, or rare fonts, it elevates the watch into a serious collector’s piece. Their scarcity is often compounded by the fact that many of these were produced in very limited quantities for specific markets.

There is a wide range of dials that appear on Oyster Perpetuals, the most stand out types are Gilt dials, Enamel dials, dials with unusual hour indexes and textured dials which include Honeycomb dials and Linen dials. Another type of dial that we know from a few Day Dates is the Guilloché dial.

Guilloché is a traditional decorative technique involving intricate, repetitive patterns engraved onto a dial's surface, often by hand or with a engine lathe. On Rolex dials, Guilloché is rarely used, making it particularly special when it appears— we have so far only seen it on ultra rare Day-Date variants. The fine, textured patterns create a dynamic interplay with light, giving the dial depth and elegance. Its presence signals a refined, often bespoke element in Rolex design, showcasing craftsmanship beyond the brand’s typically restrained aesthetic. If we had to guess the number of different Guilloche patterns on Day Dates we wouldn’t get to ten designs with each of these versions having a hand full of dials made. We will use the word ‘uber rare’ to describe them.

Day Dates with Guilloché dials are commanding amounts easily exceeding the 100,000 USD mark and even then, there isn’t one for sale at all times. On auctions we would say there is one offered every two or three years. Now translate the idea such a dial being in an Oyster Perpetual, a model that represents the absolute basic collection at Rolex. It’s sheer bizarre and that’s the reason these dials are even rarer than on Day Dates.

We are pleased to offer this absolute marvel of an Oyster Perpetual reference 1005 in 34mm from 1970.

The watch is made of 18K gold and can be easily described as a time capsule. The outstanding condition of this timepiece is underlined by its razor sharp unpolished case that has obtained a light but visible rosy patina over its 55 years of life; we believe it has probably spent its time in a dark safety box. The very fine fluted bezel is free of any wear and upon magnification also shows a subtle patina harmonizing with the rest of the case. The lugs are long and well defined, showing beautiful factory finish. As we would expect from a watch in this condition the original case back sticker is fully present with readable reference number.

The star of the show – the Guilloché dial, a mesmerizing piece of art that crowns this Oyster Perpetual with its absolute magical appeal. The dial deserves to be meticulously described as the details are incredibly fine. Let’s start with the surface, the brushed Silver dial is decorated with very fine vertically engraved lines throughout the dial that are only visible under magnification and create a Tuxedo effect with a subtle shimmer when admiring it from a far. The main, more prominent decoration is a beautiful Guilloché pattern that is actually creating the magical effect we see on the wrist. The shape used for the decoration of the dial reminds us of the diamond shape from Poker cards. Each diamond is a structure that is made up of 4 smaller diamonds. The serif used on the geometric shapes creates a fine 3D effect under the magnification. It is unbelievable how well the decoration was thought through, the details are meticulous, a testament to the craftsmanship behind this piece of art.

To enhance the beauty and functionality of this canvas, the unusual, rounded baton hour indexes have been applied with fine Onyx inlays for better readability. The black print beautifully matches the Onyx in the hour indexes without distracting from the details on the dial.

This Oyster Perpetual is a testament to the craftsmanship behind these Guilloché dials in this era. No stone was left unturned by Rolex to create the absolute extraordinary for their clients. We strongly believe that this Oyster Perpetual was not offered on a shelf in a Rolex boutique but a custom order for a discerning client who probably decided to safe keep it in the condition he had bought it in. Having this said we would love to know what kind of person had this had ordered this marvelous watch. We will probably never know but what we do know is that he had an exquisite taste for the finer things in life, details tell stories.

SKU: 1.2.364
Brand: Rolex
Model: Oyster Perpetual
Ref. No.: 1005
Serial No.: 2351xxx
Year: 1970
Gender: Gents
Case Size: 34mm
Case: Excellent 18K case in unpolished and close to new condition. The gold on the case overall has aged to a warm rosy hue, the finely fluted bezel also shows patina from age. Case numbers are crisp and fully intact, reference sticker on case back is fully present
Bracelet / Strap: Generic calf strap with gold plated Rolex pin buckle
Dial : Exceptionally rare and well preserved Silver dial with Guilloché pattern.The dial has rounded baton markers featuring stripes of Onyx in the middle for better readability.
Crystal: Acrylic
Movement: Automatic

---

---